The Trail Journal
Destinations

Spiti in winter is a different country

Minus thirty, one open road, and the best chance in the world of seeing a snow leopard. What a February in the cold desert actually asks of you.

Meera Raghunath
Meera Raghunath
Senior Editor, Himalaya
20 September 2026 · 2 min read
Spiti in winter is a different country

In summer, Spiti is a high-altitude road trip with monasteries. In winter it is a closed system: Kunzum Pass is under snow, the Manali route is gone until May, and the only way in is the long haul up from Shimla through Kinnaur on a road that gets cleared daily and sometimes does not.

The cold is the itinerary

Daytime hovers around minus 10. Nights in Kibber and Komic go to minus 25, occasionally minus 30. Water freezes in the pipes, so homestays run on stored water and dry toilets. Every building is built around one room with a bukhari stove, and that room is where the day happens.

Blue sheep on the slopes above Kibber — where the cats follow.
Blue sheep on the slopes above Kibber — where the cats follow.

About the leopard

The Kibber–Chicham belt has the highest reliable sighting rate on earth, which in practice means somewhere around a one-in-two chance across a seven-day stay with local spotters. The work is hours of glassing slopes in the cold with a tripod.

“The spotters are herders. They know which slope the blue sheep moved to last night, and that is the whole trick.”

— Tanzin Thinley, Kibber

Before you book

Whoever you go with, ask the same three questions: what is the group size, who is the lead guide on your specific departure, and what exactly happens if the weather turns. Any operator worth this trip will answer all three in one message, without hedging.

Every agency listed on TrackYourTour publishes its cancellation terms, guide-to-traveller ratio and verified reviews on the package page itself — so you can compare the answers side by side instead of chasing them over calls.

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Meera Raghunath
Written by
Meera Raghunath
Senior Editor, Himalaya

Meera has walked over 40 Himalayan routes across Uttarakhand, Himachal and Ladakh. She writes about high-altitude trekking, permits and doing it all without wrecking the trail.

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